How to Photograph Fireworks (Without Fighting Your Camera)

Fireworks photography frustrates a lot of people because it breaks the rules most cameras are designed to follow. Auto modes struggle, autofocus fails, and the results usually look nothing like what you saw in the sky.

The good news? Fireworks are actually very predictable once you take control. When you photograph fireworks using manual focus and manual exposure, the results become consistent fast.

This guide focuses on what actually matters, not gimmicks or guesswork.

Why Fireworks Are Tricky to Photograph

Fireworks confuse cameras for two reasons:

• The scene is mostly black, so the camera overexposes

• The bursts are bright but brief, so autofocus hunts and misses

That’s why this is one situation where automation works against you. Manual control isn’t advanced here — it’s required.

If you’re still getting comfortable with exposure fundamentals, this is a great real-world test of them.

Equipment That Actually Matters

You don’t need specialty gear, but a few things do make life easier.

Camera

Any camera that allows full manual control works. A DSLR or mirrorless camera makes this simpler, but it’s not about brand or price.

Tripod

Non-negotiable. Fireworks require long exposures, and hand-holding won’t work.

Lens

Wide-angle lenses (around 14–35mm) work well for large shows. Longer lenses can be useful if you’re far away or want tighter framing. Composition matters more than focal length here.

Remote or Self-Timer

A cable release is ideal for bulb mode. If you don’t have one, a 2-second self-timer plus mirror/exposure delay works surprisingly well.

Skip filters

UV and polarizers only add reflections and reduce light.

How to Focus When You Photograph Fireworks

This is where most people lose sharpness.

• Switch to manual focus

• Set focus to infinity, then back it off slightly

• Lock it there for the entire shoot

Autofocus doesn’t work reliably in the dark, and there’s no reason to refocus between shots.

Use a smaller aperture (around f/8–f/11) to give yourself depth-of-field insurance. Once focus is set, leave it alone.

Fireworks Exposure: A Simple Starting Point

Forget metering. It won’t help. Start with these settings and adjust from there:

• Mode: Manual

• ISO: 100

• Aperture: f/11

• Shutter: 10–20 seconds (or bulb mode)

• Noise Reduction: On (optional)

This combination keeps the sky dark while allowing multiple bursts to register cleanly. Longer exposures work well because fireworks take time to launch, bloom, and fade.

If the bursts are too bright:

• Stop down to f/16If they’re too faint:

• Open up to f/8 or shorten the exposure

You’re not chasing perfection — you’re dialing in consistency.

Shooting Tips That Make a Big Difference

• Start your exposure just before a launch

• Let multiple bursts stack in one frame

• Use a piece of black card to block light between bursts if needed

• Watch the edges of the frame — fireworks drift

Fireworks photography rewards patience more than speed. You’ll usually get your best frame after you think the show is almost over.

Final Thought

Fireworks photography isn’t about luck. Once your camera is set correctly, the rest becomes timing and taste.

Start simple, trust the process, and experiment once you have a few solid frames in the bag. You’ll be surprised how repeatable good results become.

The image above was captured in under 20 minutes of shooting and editing — not because it was rushed, but because the setup was solid from the start.